In Search of Blues Legend Robert L. Johnson, ‘King of the Delta Blues Singers’

A visit to his birthplace in Hazlehurst, Miss.

By Roscoe Barnes III, PhD

Copyright (c) 2020

#HistoryHunting
#RoscoeAndMichellesExcellentAdventures
#MichelleChildres

Michelle Childres here at Robert L. Johnson's house on
South Lowe Street in Hazlehurst, Miss.

Michelle Childres and I went history hunting on Saturday, May 30, 2020. This time we visited Hazlehurst, Miss., the birthplace of blues legend Robert L. Johnson (May 8, 1911 – August 16, 1938). Hazlehurst is the county seat of Copiah County.

After having breakfast at Waffle House in McComb, we drove up I-55 North to Hazlehurst, where we saw the sign honoring the bluesman with the words, "Robert L. Johnson Blues Memorial Highway." We took the exit near the sign and traveled east to Highway 51.  From there we drove North to the city's downtown area.

This sign appears on Interstate 55 near the South Hazlehurst Exit.

This marker is located in the downtown area Hazlehurst, Miss.

I'm here in front of Robert L. Johnson's house on South Lowe Street.

We visited the old house which is believed to be Johnson's birthplace. It is owned by Copiah County. The building, which is missing a roof, is located on South Lowe Street, right off of Downing Street behind the courthouse. According to Randall Day, executive director of the Hazlehurst Area Chamber of Commerce, the building was originally located on I-55. It was moved to a different location and about six years ago, it was moved to its present location. Day shared his remarks in a phone interview on Friday, May 29, 2020.

This building is owned by Copiah County, which hopes to restore it.

Michelle Childres taking a selfie in front of Robert L. Johnson's house.

I'm here at the back door of Robert L. Johnson's house.

This is the back side of Robert L. Johnson's house.

At one time there was talk of raising money to restore the house. Unfortunately, no one could prove 100 percent that Johnson lived in the house, according to Day. The fact that it has been modified over the years does not help, he said. Furthermore, he added, no one has been able to get a state architect to say it was built during the time they think Johnson lived in it. Without this confirmation or verification, efforts to get a grant have come to a halt, Day said. So for now, the building is just sitting in place, resting on bricks, as someone decides its future.

This beautiful monument is located in front of the courthouse.

We saw these guitars posted in several places in Hazlehurst.

After taking a few pics of the old box structure, Michelle and I headed to the Mississippi Music Museum, which is located in an old depot. Along the way, we saw a monument honoring Johnson in the center of the road in front of the courthouse. The inscription on the front of the monument notes Johnson was born in Hazlehurst. On the back, the inscription reads:

Robert Johnson’s recording career left an enormous legacy to American music. The body of his work is considered to be the most powerful of its kind.

His music struck a chord that continues to resonate. His blues addresses generations he never knew and made poetry of his vision and fears.

A haunting and lyrical portrait of the human spirit.

King of the Delta Blues Singers

Michelle Childres is a great photographer.

At the Mississippi Music Museum, located at 138 N Ragsdale Ave., we took pictures of a history marker posted outside. Unfortunately, the museum was closed during our visit. So we took photos of what we could see from the outside. The marker about Johnson features the following:

Robert Johnson

The legendary bluesman Robert Johnson was born on the northern outskirts of Hazlehurst to Julia Major and Noah Johnson, on May 8, 1911 (or possibly 1912). Johnson lived in Tunica County and in Memphis as a child, but in the early 1930s he returned for a stay in the Hazlehurst area, where he honed his skills playing with local blues guitarist Ike Zinnerman.

The museum was closed during our visit. I'm looking in from the outside.

Image of Robert L. Johnson on the glass.

Michelle Childres at the Mississippi Music Museum

The Mississippi Music Museum is located in this old train depot in Hazlehurst, Miss.

I'm standing in front of the Mississippi Music Museum.

This marker is posted outside the Mississippi Music Museum.

South of Hazlehurst is a town called Wesson. Outside this town is Beauregard Cemetery located at 1102-1135 Beauregard Rd, Wesson. This is where Robert Johnson reportedly spent a year learning to play guitar. Day said Johnson had spent a number of years in the Delta. During that time, he tried to play, but people said his music “sounded like chicken scratch.” In the early 1930s, Johnson returned to the Hazlehurst area. Day said he was looking for his biological father, whom he never found.

We were told that this cemetery is where Robert L. Johnson learned to
play guitar. He was taught here by Ike Zimmerman.

According to Day, it was in Beauregard Cemetery where Johnson received guitar lessons from Ike Zimmerman. “He came here and spent a year with Ike,” he said. “They sat on tombstones in the cemetery and practiced.”

When Johnson returned to the Delta, everyone was amazed at his talent and how quickly he’d learned to play. Some said he must have sold his soul to the devil. But it was Zimmerman – and not the devil – who taught him how to play, Day said.

Chuckling, Day added, “This is our version of the crossroads.”

Side note: According to one article, Zimmerman went on to become a Pentecostal preacher.

Roscoe Barnes III examining headstones.

Michelle and I explored the cemetery, looking for headstones that were around in the early 1930s. We tried to imagine what it was like for Johnson and Zimmerman to be playing in the cemetery under the moon light.

Michelle Childres examining gravesite.

After taking a few pics, we drove into Wesson and enjoyed a meal at Dump’s BBQ at 1033 Church St. The service was excellent and the prices were reasonable. The food was delicious. We sampled their pulled pork, sausage, ribs, baked beans, and potato salad with ice tea. We loved it!

The restaurant owner talked about Robert Johnson. He said Johnson’s family now lives in Crystal Springs, about 10 miles north of Hazlehurst.

We found this restaurant while driving through Wesson, Miss.

This is the meal that we ordered for lunch in Wesson, Miss.

#HistoryHunting #RobertJohnson RoscoeAndMichellesExcellentAdventure #Blues #Mississippi #MichelleChildres #Hazlehurst #BeauregardCemetery

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ROSCOE BARNES III, Ph.D., is a writer, chaplain, historian, and former newspaper reporter. He is the author of more than a dozen books and Gospel tracts. For more information about his work and history, see his Personal Profile here or visit his website: http://www.roscoebarnes.net. Connect with him on Twitter (@roscoebarnes3) or by email: roscoebarnes3@yahoo.com.